Can those "food grade" skin care products really be eaten? I'm sorry, you're on the road again!

"Kitchen food grade" "the body-good food is also good for the skin" "You can add our all-you-can oil into your breakfast sand ice" "100% natural non-synthetic moisturizer" ... When it comes to skincare, new concepts are emerging, and now "edible" has become the hottest concept. Compared with other cosmetics, "edible" skin care products advertise the naturalness and safety of their ingredients, emphasizing that their ingredients even reach the edible level. And in these "can eat" skin care products, in addition to the main products launched by various brands, there are many netizens of DIY "heart", kiwi yogurt mask, tomato acne mask, fruit vinegar green beans tight pore water ... So are these "eatable" skincare products really better?
"edible" level cosmetics can not eat
" cosmetics and food belong to different industries, the use of different parts, different absorption components, the use of raw materials and product indicators requirements, prohibition requirements, the implementation of the norms, testing standards are not the same. Wang Peipei, Director of Research and Development of Tianjin Qiang Microtech Company and Master of Biochemistry of Tianjin University, introduced that the cosmetic raw materials refer to the "List of Names of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" issued by the state, a total of 8783 kinds, and food additives refer to the "National Standard Food Additives For Food Safety Standards", a total of 2370 kinds.
Wang Peipei introduced, taking alcohol as an example, the implementation standard of edible alcohol is GB10343-2008, of which the average grade alcohol methanol index is "150 mg/L", allowing a very small amount of methanol to exist, and in the Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification (2015), methanol is a prohibited ingredient. For example, for microbial requirements, food in accordance with the national standard GB4789 food microbiology testing, a total of 42 tests, cosmetics are in accordance with the "cosmetic hygiene norms" requirements, detection of the total number of bacterial microbial bacteria, such as fecal E. coli, bacillus, Staphylococcus aureus, etc. , the requirements are completely different, not food-grade products used in skin care is safer.
" merchant's new 'edible' cosmetics concept is actually the market language used to promote the effect. Niu Dongbin, director of the cosmetics supervision department of the Tianjin Drug Administration, said that from the existing standards and norms, cosmetics are not edible, there is no "edible" level of cosmetics concept.
apply food active ingredients directly is difficult to absorb
"Some of the ingredients in many foods can indeed play a skin care role." Wang Hao, associate professor of food engineering and biotechnology at Tianjin University of Science and Technology, said, for example, polysaccharide oats have good moisturizing effect, green tea containing tea polyphenols, ginseng saponins in ginseng have good antioxidant properties, and tequila containing substances such as steroid saponins has a good anti-inflammatory moisturizing effect.
" but it is important to note that ingredients should not be mixed directly with other cosmetics. Niu Dongbin reminded that because cosmetics contain preservatives, adding edible ingredients will destroy the antiseptic system in cosmetics, can lead to product spoilage, mold, oil and water layering and other phenomena.
" actually directly apply food ingredients, the skin is difficult to absorb. Many of the ingredients in food are large molecules, the skin's epidermus and the dermatome in the middle of a very reliable substrate film, it is the epiderm layer and the der cortical layer separated into two worlds, it is difficult to achieve permeable absorption, so there is a skin care effect of substances difficult to reach the dermatometer in large quantities; Wang Hao, for example, vitamin C properties are unstable and easy to oxidize, so the use of regular cosmetics are generally vitamin C stable form of derivatives, and concentration, stimulation are regulated. Directly apply vitamin capsules or directly squeeze lemon juice into the mask, not only can not achieve skin care effect, but also citric acid has a strong corrosive, prone to face dryness, redness and other symptoms, serious will also cause skin irritation.
" but if you apply cosmetics containing these ingredients extract, the skin care effect is certainly better than the edible effect. Wang Hao explained that although the skin care mechanism is the same, but eat food needs to go through the digestive tract of various digestive enzymes chemical digestion, and also need to go through the metabolism of other organs, and ultimately can act on the skin's active ingredients are relatively small. Only by eating a certain amount of food ingredients can you achieve the same effect as applying, but this often produces some side effects. Such as eating vitamin C to whiten, if you eat too much, it is easy to cause diarrhea, stomach acid thruft and so on.
food ingredients added to regular cosmetics are not added directly, but in the form of extracts. Wang Peipei introduced that the extract is through the physical and chemical extraction and separation process, targeted acquisition and concentration of one or more active ingredients in plants and animals, without changing its active composition structure and the formation of products. According to the composition of the extract is different, can form radon, acid, polyphenols, polysaccharides, steroids, flavonoids, alkaloids and so on. Moreover, some of the natural food ingredients are not suitable for the skin, direct use, will damage the skin, so according to different uses, we use different purification techniques, to obtain different efficacy of extracts.
Wang Peipei said, compared with food, chemical raw materials sometimes require higher purity, because too many impurities will lead to the collapse of the cosmetic formula system, and cosmetic formula complex, a formula may have as many as dozens of ingredients, which requires each ingredient of the active substance purity is higher, less impurities, otherwise easy to affect each other, not meet the expected requirements.
Inse can't be made into skincare products with pure natural extracts
"Consumers often feel that 'edible' must be better and safer, and many people are 'obsessed' with the concepts of all-natural, non-added, pure plants. Wang Peipei introduced that the China Consumer Association and the China Fragrance Cosmetics Industry Association jointly issued in 2011 "whitening beauty skin care products consumption guidelines" show that cosmetics are composed of a variety of ingredients, including a variety of chemical components, only natural plant extracts can not be made into skin care products.
National cosmetics claim to be 'preservative-free', which is mainly the following situations: the first is that the product does not contain preservatives, mostly disposable packaging products (such as capsule products) and the substation itself is not easy to grow bacteria products (such as essential oils, lipsticks, dew, perfumes, etc.); This category of products has added a number of antibacterial effect, but also not in the "cosmetic safety technical specifications" of the list of quasi-preservatives with anti-corrosion effect of ingredients, such as glycol, glycol and so on. However, these ingredients are not necessarily safer than products that require the use of preservatives in accordance with the Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification; "
" We should look at the existence of preservatives in cosmetics rationally and scientifically. Niu Dongbin said that China's regulations require all cosmetics before the market need to carry out toxicology tests or a certain risk assessment, in general, in strict accordance with the requirements of the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification" the use of preservatives cosmetics is safe.
" in addition, there are many hidden dangers of uncertifyed 'natural' or 'organic' products. Wang Peipei said, such as musk, geranium, roses and other components containing some alkaloids and volatile ingredients, there is a potential allergy; At the same time, this kind of cosmetics in the effect is not guaranteed. The content of effective substances in natural ingredients is usually low, such as ginseng, soybeans, flaxseeds and other claims to contain functional proteins and small molecule peptides, but the literature points out that the proportion of active peptides from ginseng root powder is 0.001%, and then its extract is added to the formula with 0.1%-10%, relying on the polypeptides contained in plant extracts to play a skin care role is more difficult.
" and special-purpose cosmetics shall be approved by the State Drug Administration and obtain the approval number of the product; imports of non-special-purpose cosmetics shall be filed with the drug supervision department; and domestic non-special-purpose cosmetics shall be filed with the local provincial drug regulatory authority and obtain electronic documents for the record. Niu Dongbin reminded that the above approval number, the record of electronic vouchers is the identity of cosmetics, approval numbers need to be marked on the product packaging label, the record number of the record electronic vouchers, although not required to be marked on the product's packaging label, but can be queried on the website of the State Drug Administration.
.