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    Home > Biochemistry News > Biotechnology News > The enlightenment that the Japanese baking industry brings us, how to make bread well

    The enlightenment that the Japanese baking industry brings us, how to make bread well

    • Last Update: 2021-04-16
    • Source: Internet
    • Author: User
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    In 2008, a Lunar New Year movie "If You Are the One" unveiled the beauty of Hokkaido, Japan.
    In the Chinese baking industry 12 years later, "Hokkaido" is still a shining word.
    "Hokkaido toast" is more appealing than "milk toast"-it is full of milk flavor and soft taste, so that when I first ate the "Hokkaido toast" sold in the bakery at the entrance of the university, Shouting that this is simply Yang Guo of the baking industry-it looks unremarkable, but it is so fragrant, so soft, and so "missing for life".

    Source: Visual China



    Since then, I have always had a cordial vision for Hokkaido and recognized Hokkaido toast as a local product.
    It was not until I came to live in Japan that I realized that there was no such thing as "Hokkaido Toast".



    1.
    There is no "Hokkaido Toast" in Hokkaido

    1.
    There is no "Hokkaido Toast" in Hokkaido



    Milk produced in Hokkaido is the quality of conscience.
    Although there are many brands, you can basically choose blindly with your eyes closed, and there is nothing bad.
    Of course, as travel souvenirs, Shiroi Koibito, Rokkatei, Royce' Raw Chocolate, Three Brothers of French Fries, etc.


    are also quite popular, but I have never heard the term "Hokkaido Toast".
    Come to think of it, maybe it was just a gimmick made to emphasize the use of high-quality dairy products.




    In any case, the concept of "Hokkaido" has been so swaggeringly popular in the Chinese baking industry for many years.
    Later, Hokkaido chiffon, Hokkaido cheesecake, and copycat version of XX lovers appeared one after another, all of which had little to do with Hokkaido.



    There is a "raw toast" (パン) in Japan.
    In 2013, it was officially launched by Osaka bakery "Nomi".
    It looks like a whole loaf of unpretentious toast, but the price is almost 4 times that of ordinary toast on the market.


    I just arrived in Japan that year and regarded it as a luxury.




    "パン" in Japanese comes from Portuguese and is a general term for various types of bread.
    "パン" refers to a whole loaf of toast bread, usually sliced ​​and eaten.
    As for why it is described as "raw", it does not mean that the toast is undercooked, but is similar to "whipped cream" and "raw chocolate", mainly emphasizing the freshness of the ingredients.


    Compared with sliced ​​toasts such as "Super Cooked", a cheap brand in the supermarket that is over 100 yen, raw toast is particularly moist, soft and dense.
    It is obviously toast, but it tastes a bit like a cake that melts in your mouth.




    Naomi’s slogan is as follows:

    Naomi’s slogan is as follows:



    "By adding honey, raw toast has a subtle and elegant sweetness.
    Not only the whole bread, but the toast side tastes fragrant and soft, which is addictive.
    "

    Therefore, even if it does not undergo secondary baking, spreading, etc.
    , raw toast is quite delicious when eaten directly.
    Even if it is put on the next day, it will not dry and hard as ordinary toast, and the taste will still be mellow.


    .




    In addition to のが, there are many famous shops for raw toast.
    According to the legend, "You can't forget it after you eat it once", La Pan, a premium raw toast specialty shop with special printing, Umamoto, Centre the Bakery, which only sells three kinds of toast, and Viking, which advocates "Let the day have a happy start" Bakery F.
    .


    .
    There is also a shop called "えたすごいわ" (the person that thinks of it is amazing)-yes, it is such a strange and vivid name.




    The above-mentioned stores basically use raw materials such as milk and fresh cream from Hokkaido, but they have not made much fuss about this.
    Some brands advocate the addition of honey, while others do not use eggs or even milk.
    "Ginza にかわ" attaches great importance to water quality and uses exclusive electrolyzed water.


    It can be said that every family has their own magical powers under the principle of sticking to the delicate and soft taste, interpreting their own distinctive and stable flavor.




    Looking back at China, the concept of raw toast has actually been popular for several years.
    For example, Hollyland has a raw toast, the biggest highlight is "100% use of Nissin flour".
    Domestic review websites mainly praise it, but generally focus on "low sweetness but not greasy" and "tough taste".


    This seems to be not the same thing as Japanese raw toast.




    The same is true for most other brands: print a "sheng" on the packaging and customize a gimmick that looks attractive.
    The Japanese-style matcha boxes, soy milk boxes, etc.
    , which have been popular on the whole network before, are also items that have never been seen in Japan.



    In China, baked goods itself is still a fairly young imported variety.
    The industry really started to take off and formed an industrial scale in the 1980s, not too long ago.
    Whether it is borrowing Japanese concepts to promote hype, or following the same trend in the future, re-engraving certain popular products, most of them are still at the stage of surface imitation.


    Japan, which fully promoted Westernization through the Meiji Restoration, is indeed a pioneer in the Asian baking industry.
    Coupled with the craftsmanship of excellence, it has digested and cultivated a lot of innovative knowledge of baking for us.



    2.
    How is the preference for softness shaped?

    2.
    How is the preference for softness shaped?



    Baking culture originated from the West.

    Baking culture originated from the West.

    For example, European countries have their own traditional varieties of unique flavors: French hard-to-finger baguette, country bread, German rye bread with sour taste, Italian cute "slipper" bread ciabatta, and English "flower" Broome bread and so on.



    Japan has always eaten rice, and the wheat culture originally originated from China.
    In the Yayoi period around 200 BC, wheat was introduced to Japan from China, and the technique of steaming noodles was introduced at the end of the Kamakura period.
    But the technique of fermenting and baking bread was imported with missionaries in the 16th century.
    With the spread of Christianity, bread called "God's Flesh" began to spread in Japan.
    At the end of the Edo period, in order to avoid exposure of the military position due to cooking smoke, bread once became an important ration because of its dry, easy-to-carry and preserve characteristics.



    Of course, the bread culture really penetrated into Japan after the Meiji Restoration.
    With the port of Yokohama as the center, a variety of Western bakeries have appeared, such as Japanese wine-scented and soft-tasting bean paste bread (あんぱん), and cream bread stuffed with custard sauce.
    After World War II, in response to the food crisis, Japan purchased a large amount of surplus wheat flour and skimmed milk powder from the United States, which affected the eating habits of an entire generation of Japanese.
    At that time, bread already occupied a place in the school lunch menu.



    Gradually, bread has been integrated into the daily life of the Japanese.
    After continuous improvement, it has become softer and more in line with the taste of the Japanese.
    It can be said that its status in daily life can be said to be comparable to that of rice.



    As a staple food, European bread is large in size and deep in color.
    The skin is golden and crunchy, and the inside is tough and chewy.
    It is mainly for filling the stomach.
    At the same time, it pays great attention to the original flavor of wheat.
    The ingredients such as eggs, milk and butter do not account for the proportion of the formula.
    If it is too high, sugar and oil are rarely added.
    What's more, some coarse grains are often added to make the taste more solid.
    Although it has become more and more popular in recent years because of the trend of healthy eating, to be honest, the tough and firm taste is indeed not very friendly to Asians with underdeveloped masseter muscles.

    In 1999, Japan took the lead in developing the "soft European bag", which not only retains the hard crust and wheat flavor of the European bag, but also has the soft and waxy heart of Japanese bread.
    This kind of bread was later popular in Taiwan, China.
    After the optimization and improvement of the baker, the old concept of "sweet bread" in the market was subverted in one fell swoop.
    After more than ten years, this wind finally blows to the mainland of China.
    In 2013, the original Maishanqiu opened its first store in Beijing and quickly became popular with its flagship product, soft European bags.



    The Japanese interpreter is indispensable for bread making in China, and the same is true for making cakes.



    In Japanese baking, the categories of strawberry cake, chiffon cake and cake roll are especially familiar to the Chinese, and they frequently appear in many baking books and tutorials.
    For example, the chiffon cake, known as the "starting point of baking", is not the birthplace in Japan, but it has been carried forward and its silky soft texture has been brought to the extreme.
    In the minds of Chinese baking enthusiasts, Mr.
    Xiaoji Lumi’s Chiffon recipe is most suitable for Asian tastes and has almost become a "baking bible" for everyone.



    Compared to European desserts with heavy oil and sugar, Japanese baking has a unique sense of indifference.
    Many famous cake categories look quite simple, like a "wabi-sabi wind" from the baking world.
    But as long as they have tasted it, few people can refuse this delicate and elegant but not greasy sweetness, and they will be amazed by their light taste.



    There is a cute onomatopoeia in Japanese: ふわふわ (Fuwafuwa), which means fluffy, soft, and fluffy.
    Whether it is the sponge cake itself, or the mellow cream on the outer layer, it is as if you are on the cloud of Fuwafuwa.
    It’s no wonder that Japanese bakery will wipe out Asians’ love of desserts.



    This is true for roasting, coffee, outdoor, design, and many other aspects.
    Although Japan is not the birthplace of these cultures, but with the belief in pursuing the ultimate, it can always learn from the good things of others, and add its own elements to imitating, doing it day by day, and making its own.
    soul.
    This is a kind of "usage doctrine" that makes people unpleasant.



    3.
    What's gone, what's stuck, what's left

    3.
    What's gone, what's stuck, what's left



    The food writer Sunny Little Superman who lives in Beijing is also a baking expert.
    She has written nearly 500 recipes on the "Under the Kitchen".
    She likes to visit Japanese coffee shops when she travels.



    Once she was walking near Daiguan Mountain, she walked randomly into an old-fashioned tea shop deep in the alleys.
    Unlike the glamorous and fashionable shops around, that shop looks old and is run by an old couple.
    At afternoon tea, the old men and women who lived nearby opened the door one after another and walked in, chatting with the shopkeeper about the mountains.
    The hand-made cakes in the shop only have a few basic chiffon cakes and cheese cakes.



    A simple chiffon cake was served on the table, accompanied by a spoonful of rich cream, which became an unforgettable taste that she would revisit every time she went to Tokyo.



    Superman once lamented that in China, everything has become too fast.



    Compared with Japanese shops that have been established for decades, or senior brands like "White Koibito" that have their own theme parks and museums, domestic bakers tend to take the route of Internet celebrity explosions.
    Many of the new stores that popped up suddenly disappeared after a year or a half of the ups and downs in the market before they had time to build their brands.

    On the one hand, limited to the real pressure of rent in first-tier cities, many bakery operators will spend great efforts on decoration, carefully creating an environment suitable for taking pictures and punching cards, and make a quick cash and leave; on the other hand, China's extremely developed logistics system Although it breaks geographical restrictions and allows everything to be solved online, it also makes physical sales seem to be overhead.
    There is no sense of choice, and there is no leisurely strolling around, and it seems that there is no life.



    Instead, every time he comes to Tokyo, Superman feels that he can find the slow pace of the past in various coffee shops, bakeries that specialize in bread, and cake shops that specialize in cakes.
    This year, next year, three or five years, or even more than ten years later, time flows slowly, the human touch has not changed, and familiar delicacies are always waiting for you in that place.



    The baking market in Japan was decades before China, and there are so many things we can learn from the business model, philosophy and material supply behind it.
    Baking in China is young and full of vigor, and now there are many unique brands and shops, such as "Cycle&Cycle" in Hangzhou, "Gudian" in Beijing and so on.



    The customer base of China's baking industry is actually very diverse.
    The taste of the new generation is more westernized, the older generation is more traditional, and the post-80s and 90s are somewhere in between.
    Traditional Chinese dim sum is also quietly changing, and more and more innovations have been made in the localization of baking.
    For example, Chinese desserts that follow the "national trend" use ingredients such as white fungus, sesame, tofu, glutinous rice, and lychee to present a Chinese taste.



    Weiwei, a baking enthusiast living in Tokyo, has made some creative combinations: salty salted egg yolk and black sesame seeds, all of which have received a lot of praise.
    In addition, considering that many Chinese people are intolerant to lactose, she recommends using taro puree, soy milk, etc.
    as alternative ingredients for dairy products.
    Hawthorn, purple rice, and pork floss are also very suitable for Chinese tastes.
    Compared with putting on a name, the simple and crude re-enactment of baking in Europe, America or Japan settles down, and it is obviously more long-term to consider how to make characteristics in integration and innovation.



    The "take-ism" Japan has its own life standing in the context of history and the needs and habits of its own country.
    Chinese baking may still have a long way to go, but obviously, we can have expectations for the future.

    Source: FoodWine Eats and Drinks

    Note: All pictures in the article are reprinted on the Internet, and infringement will be deleted!

    Note: All pictures in the article are reprinted on the Internet, and infringement will be deleted!

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